It has been nine years since I last visited the Kruger National Park. Before we were married, Alex and I spent some time there during an amazing month-long, cross-country road trip. I’m afraid our most vivid memories of the experience are of crowds: Forty plus cars in an aggressive scrum, jostling to see the pride of lions casually strolling down the road; circling the Skakuza camping grounds again and again, unable to find a free site amidst all the impossibly large trailers; a minibus rudely blocking our beautiful view of the dam and its inhabitants… It wasn’t a bad experience at all! Just kind of… inauthentic (for lack of a better word). BUT, we knew we’d like to go back again. This time, for our family vacation with my mom and brother, we wanted to spend time in the North (previously, we only went as far up as Satara Rest Camp). What ensued was an unforgettable trip, and certainly one that felt authentic!
Infamous for spectacular birding, Punda Maria and surrounds did not disappoint! Our day trip up to the Pafuri picnic spot and Crooks Corner was certainly one of our best drives (slightly delayed due to two bully-boy elephants that refused to let us pass!).
The wonderful guide at Pafuri was beyond thrilled to show us ‘his’ birds. “I-have-it-here, I-have-it-here, I-have-it-here”, he chanted while doing a little happy dance, after pointing out yet another beauty that calls this remote section of the park home.
We were incredibly lucky with the weather, apart from one pesky rainstorm that literally left us waking up in a muddy dam… Thankfully, during this cloud break we were still in Punda Maria. When we moved to Shingwedzi, our neighbours shared video proof of events there: 100mm in 24 hours, with multiple, ankle-deep rivers gushing through the camping terrain, washing away shoes, chairs and small children (I kid about the latter, although I’m sure it would have been possible!).
Apart from fantastic game drives, Shingwedzi also introduced us to the magic of “Bum Birding”: Birding from the comfort of your own camping chair, with a cup of tea in one hand, a book in the other (which you never actually open), and the expansive sights and sounds of Mother Nature enveloping you. It was incredible how much we actually saw! It was also a welcome break from all that time spent in the car; an opportunity to really unplug.
Our last stop was Satara. Although it was notably busier than the previous, more Northern camps, we enjoyed it very much too. Only once did we really have to sit in a lion-viewing scrum. But even this delivered fun, ranting conversations about people’s total disregard for one another (and shockingly enough, even for the lions!). People be crazy…!
Finally, we enjoyed a few fabulous nights at Sanbonani Resort, just outside Hazyview. Alex immediately dubbed it “Sanbo-larney”, impressed with the delectable luxury!
From here, we visited White River and the stunning Reflections of Africa Art Gallery, where my work has been a permanent fixture since late last year. What a treat to finally see the gallery in person! The collection of work is truly breathtaking — I actually felt a bit out of my depth, surrounded by all that awe-inspiring talent… Nothing that some comforting words from gallery owner, Coleen Williams, and my supportive family couldn’t cure. The enormous Belgian waffle at the restaurant next door also seemed to help… After all, a waffle a day, keeps self-doubt away!
A small selection of our favourite Kruger highlights:
Similar to our trip to the Kgalagadi last year, we visited the Kruger out of season. We still managed to see 145 bird species, of which 54 were new sightings (on our previous visit to the Kruger in 2013, the birding bug hadn’t bitten yet!).
Three separate leopard sightings!!!
A pack of wild dogs playing in the road at sunset!
The resident African Wild Cat in the Satara Rest Camp, casually strolling past our camp site.
On arrival at Shingwedzi, I looked at a tree beyond the fence, and jokingly announced that it looks like an “Owl Tree” and that I plan to see an owl in that tree before we leave. A couple of evenings later, with the setting sun casting a golden light over the veld, I picked up my binos to look at a little bird in the Owl Tree that looked… odd. Turns out it was a Pearl-Spotted Owlet, looking teeny tiny amongst a gregarious flock of starlings! As if the sighting alone wasn't cool enough, I had literally just shared a throwback to my painting of a Pearl-Spotted Owlet on social media! It's as if the Universe just knew...
A fabulous night drive from Shingwedzi! Apart from the awesome sightings - a civet (!!!), genets, wild cat, hyena, spring hare, hippos, crocs, various antelope - it was just such a different experience to a day-time drive. Our guide, Bishop, was very entertaining and knowledgeable!
The 'welcoming committee' at Punda Maria: a flock of Crested Guinea Fowl!
The little tree squirrels were absolutely adorable!!!
A tortoise drinking from a puddle in the road...
Shingwedzi -- with all our camping gear hanging out to dry!
Leopard sighting number one -- a private viewing that happened so fast, it almost didn't feel real!
The baobabs were astonishing! First time seeing them in the flesh, and I was blown away by their sheer size and wonderful varying personalities. Very special indeed, since just a week before we left for the park, I finished a very unique commissioned painting featuring a baobab!
Dinner-time routine at Shingwedzi. Alex is juggling onions........
Bum-birding at Satara.
A baboon contemplating this thing called Life...
The tiniest Nyala babe we've ever seen! It was visibly embarrassed that Mom wouldn't stop licking!
A White-backed Vulture picking branches to add to its nest!
Smile!
The sensational trees and views at Sanbonani.
Taking Bum-birding to the next level -- making use of the deck chairs at Sanbo-larney!
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1 comment
Stunning share! I can relate to all. You have a magic way of putting it down onto paper. xoxo